CRITIC REVIEWS
JancisRobinson.com
Full screwcapped bottle 1,265 g. The famous Hill of Grace west-facing vineyard 4 km north of Mount Edelstone that was planted with pre-phylloxera plants, the Grandfathers, brought from Europe in the mid 1800s, on very varied soils. Red-brown clay-loam grades to deep silty loam at 400 m over slate bedrock. Average rainfall is 520 mm a year. The original Ancestors vines are now about 160 years old. There are also centenarian vines and some that were planted about 35 years ago - all on their own roots, hence strict hygiene controls on those entering the vineyard. Each block is different apparently: House (the lightest soils with gravel in middle), Church (shallower red clay), PO Block 2 (shallower than 1), PO Block 1, Grandfathers (on the deepest soil with vines that take ages to ripen but offer exotic and spicy flavours), Windmill (less loess, more red clay and more vigorous - competes for latest with Grandfathers). An anti-frost fan was installed in 2005. Picked 18 to 21 April. This wine is really all about the vineyard rather than the winery. Matured for 18 months in oak hogsheads (29% new), of which 17% were American rather than French oak. pH 3.52, TA 6.4 g/l. Sumptuous nose with an amazing array of savoury notes and with something distinctly mineral. Broad and absolutely bone dry - a contrast to Hill of Roses and Mount Edelstone. Very serious, almost gruff on the palate. Long with slightly more obvious alcohol than some. The tannins are almost hidden ('we spend a lot of time walking through the vineyard tasting for tannin maturity', according to Stephen Henschke). Amazingly long. But this is by far the most youthful of these new releases.