CRITIC REVIEWS
Matt Walls
An immediate, dense fog of blackberry, violet and mashed blueberries rises up out of the glass. Theres a touch of iodine, and that animal-tinged Mourvèdre character. This is full-bodied, much denser and more concentrated than the Tradition this year, with great extract and heft, deep-set acidity and great length. Fresh and balanced despite its power, with serious grip. You could drink this now with a charred ribeye, but theres much to gain from waiting; I would suggest from 2029. Around 60% of the blend comes from old vine Mourvèdre from their Courrieux vineyard. Grapes are destemmed, fermented in tronconic wooden vats using natural yeasts after a brief cold maceration, with regular punching down.
Jancis Robinson
75% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 5% Counoise. The month of January was very cold. In fact, it was the coldest it has ever been in the last five years. There was a sharp rise in temperatures from the beginning of February and towards the end of March. Conditions were much like those in 2014 when the vintage proved to be an early one. A cold spell hit France at the end of April. Temperatures were as low as 3.7 °C on 20 April at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The appellation then went through a vegetative period that was very hot with maximum temperatures exceeding 30 °C by the end of June (37.6 °C was recorded on 23 June and 40.5 °C on 4 August). The 2017 vintage is therefore the second hottest in the last 20 years, not quite as hot as 2003 but more so than 2015 and 2009. Harvest 4 September to 15 October. Dark glowing purplish crimson. Sumptuous, spicy red wine rather than particularly recognisable as Châteauneuf. Really quite structured. Indeed the finish is pretty chewy. But the fruit is certainly intense and bright. Pretty smart winemaking with spice the dominant note.