1893 Chateau d’Yquem Premier Cru Superieur, Sauternes 1x75cl

Neal Martin

At 126 years old, this elixir effortlessly shrugs off its age. Iridescent amber in color, it has a beguiling bouquet of dried honey, rosehip, stewed peaches and just a suggestion of Tokaji Azsù. The delineation is enthralling and difficult to reconcile with such a hot growing season. The palate is blessed with exquisite balance and an electric wire of acidity that slices through what must once have been very intensely botrytized fruit. This is still viscous and caressing, offering caramelized oranges, honeycomb and just a hint of yellow plum towards the ineffably complex finish. Maybe because of its venerable age, the 1893 does not quite possess the persistence of the very greatest d’Yquems that I have tasted, but it remains a truly fabulous Sauternes from a remarkable growing season. Tasted blind at the end of the Pétrus dinner at Hide in London.