CRITIC REVIEWS
JancisRobinson.com
100% Chardonnay from grands crus of the Côtes des Blancs: 21% Chouilly, 58% Cramant, 21% Mesnil-sur-Oger. Dosage 3.75 g/l. Partial malo. 100% vinification in tank before 144 months' ageing on lees. This is certainly not austere but there's not much sign of the richness of the vintage either. This is still extraordinarily taut for a 14-year-old wine. Dense and set for the long term. Very tightly wound - so don't serve this too cold. It deserves to unwind a bit and show its nuance and lacy delicacy - it should to be left to open out in the glass. Admirably persistent. (JR)

