CRITIC REVIEWS
JancisRobinson.com
Chardonnay from the crus of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, Oger, Cramant, Vertus. Nine years on the lees, disgorged 2023. Only the 8th time this wine has been made in over 40 years. Dosage 9 g/l. Masses of very fine bubbles on first pouring. Inviting, almost ethereal chalky citrus aroma. Masses of mouth-watering tension and freshness, with great precision. Tightly wound but not lean because it is so well balanced. Pure, chalky, crisp and very long. Elegant, gently complex, with only subtle creamy/yeasty autolytic character. The crisp citrus fruit still dominates after all this time on the lees, though the lees ageing shows in the rich texture. (JH)

