2014 Domaine Jean Louis Chave, Hermitage, Rouge 6x75cl
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CRITIC REVIEWS
Josh Raynolds
Glass-staining ruby. Potent aromas of fresh black and blue fruits, licorice, spicecake and candied flowers on the deeply perfumed nose. Fleshy, seamless and expansive on the palate, offering vivacious blackberry, cherry, boysenberry and allspice flavors that deepen and spread out slowly on the back half. Closes on a minerally note, delivering building tannins, superb dark-fruit-driven persistence and lingering spiciness.
Jeb Dunnuck
As normal, I was able to taste the 2014 Hermitage in its individual components, with the Bessards and l'Hermite (which are the backbone of the cuvee) both showing full-bodied richness, plenty of mid-palate depth and no shortage of tannic grip. The Méal is always the most jammy and forward, and is easily the most identifiable given its sexy, supple texture, although it never has the definition or cut of the Bessards. The Peleat and Beaume barrels are normally smaller components in the finial blend, with the Beaume always showing the most spice-laced and perfumed of the two. The 2014 shows the house elegance and purity, yet has solid ripeness and texture. All of the samples had solid tannic grip, but the overall impression was much more forward and approachable than the 2013, and I suspect it will be relatively accessible with short term cellaring. The reference point for classic Hermitage and Saint Joseph, Gérard and Jean-Louis Chave have just completed construction on a new cellar, which is located just across the street from their old cellar in Mauves. They've connected the two via a tunnel under the road, and the new cellar is quickly on its way to looking just like the old cellar -- with the same type of mold, smell and feel. Don't underestimate this, as cellar conditions contribute plenty to the final wine (and style of the estate), and I always have a touch of trepidation when a well-known estate moves into a new cellar. I have no such concerns here. Looking at recent vintages, Jean-Louis calls 2014 a "friendly vintage" and goes on to comment that the year started beautifully, but everything changed in July with cooler, wetter and more volatile weather. However, September was beautiful. I was able to go through all of the different Hermitage parcels and they showed surprising density and tannic grip in what's generally an easy going, mid-weight and charming vintage. Still, it's certainly a more approachable, fleshy wine than the masculine, granite-laced 2013. Still not yet bottled (and there's no set date for it to be bottled either), the 2013 Hermitage should surpass the 2014, although it's in a more, as Jean-Louis would say, 'granite-style' and will require cellaring to show at its best. As I've written now for a couple years, this estate continues to invest heavily in Saint Joseph and are developing new vineyards as well as replanting old ones. Similar to his Hermitage release, I was able to taste the different vineyards that go into his Saint Joseph, and while he continues to release a single cuvee, I've no doubt there will be multi-single vineyards in the not too distant future.
JancisRobinson.com
Lots going on here on the nose, wet hay, straw and popcorn with unripe melon and apricot skin. Plenty of oak still on the palate, real intensity of fruit and concentration, lanolin and wet wool on the long toasty finish. Rich and full – still resolving. Long, fine and still very, very young – drinking well but still a baby. (AC)
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