2016 Catena Zapata, Nicolas Catena Zapata, Mendoza 6x75cl

JancisRobinson.com

Tasted from a 10-cl tube. Their tech notes say: Dry farming, cool climate and eternal snow. The coolest vintage in the last thirty years, 2016 was marked by "el nino", low yields and a fully snow-covered view of the Andes through the summer. The rains came together with cooler than usual days which saved us from any rot by lowering yields and shortening the harvest season. Our vineyards were mostly dry farmed; natural acidities are extremely high and alcohols low, in the 12-13% range. The 2016 wines might take longer than usual to be ready for drinking. Hand-picked, and some parcels are fermented as whole bunches to enhance tannic structure and freshness. The fermentation takes place in 500-litre oak barrels, concrete and stainless-steel tanks, at temperatures of 26-28 C for about 10-15 days. The post-fermentative maceration lasts between 5 and 10 days. The wine carries out its malolactic fermentation and is then aged in French oak barrels for 18 months.' 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Malbec, 8% Cabernet Franc. 6,200 cases produced. Wine director: Alejandro Vigil. Winemaker: Fernando Buscema. Laura Catena calls this their 'Burgundy vintage' - unusually cold but the low yields were down to coulure rather than rot. Unusually, this blend included Cab Franc. So much more floral than the 2018. Violets, talc, lavender. The massive power geometry of the 2018 contrasts sharply with the brushstroke-oval of the 2016. A long, slim wine of almost ethereal proportions. Fresh-picked peppermint leafiness layers under blueberries under panpipe notes of white pepper. Breathtakingly fragrant fine. A whisper of blueberries. This is absolutely stunning. They say drink between 2038 to 2045, but I am going to once again make a much more conservative estimate. (TC)