CRITIC REVIEWS
Antonio Galloni
The 2017 Dom Perignon is so impressive. A sort of mini-2002, the 2017 is a Champagne of textural richness and resonance above all else. Its creamy, voluptuous contours are so inviting. Production for the 2017 is tiny, about a three-month supply, so this wine will come and go pretty quickly. That represents a fairly dramatic shift in philosophy at Dom Perignon. In the past, a wine like the 2017 would not have been commerically viable because of its small volume. Today, Chef de Caves Vincent Chaperon prefers to bottle Dom Perignon in every vintage, if possible, as a document of the year, even if that means some releases will be very small. The 2017 is a wild, exotic Dom Perignon. I loved it.
JancisRobinson.com
Full bottle 1,646 g. Richard Geoffroy's last vintage, to be released commercially at the beginning of 2026. He controversially decided that the 2016 base wines weren't concentrated enough so they skipped that year and more or less had to make a 2017, from a notoriously difficult growing season when many a grape was ruined by galloping acetic acid infection. One of the ripest vintages ever and, until storms on 15 August, everyone was touting it as the best vintage ever. Chardonnays were even riper than in 2003 but finding good Pinot Noir in the warm, wet conditions of late August and early September was a real challenge. This blend is 62% Chardonnay, 38% Pinot Noir and in terms of quantity is the smallest Dom P release ever, only three or four months' sales-worth. Even smaller than 2005. Described in-house as a 'radical' vintage, a bit like 2003 ie one that was not widely made. Exceedingly rich nose with more creme patissiere than lemon in this vintage - a less citrus Dom than usual. Seems quite sweet and a little simpler and lighter than the 2018. And not as long. But perhaps it's suffering by comparison with the sheer intensity and obvious ripeness of 2018 tasted alongside. May even be a slow burner. There's a touch of bitterness at the end. (JR)


