2022 Ata Rangi, Pinot Noir, Martinborough 6x75cl

JancisRobinson.com

Full screwcapped bottle 1,314 g. In 2014 the vineyards achieved full organic certification. Grapes are planted on a thin layer of well-drained alluvial soil. This is a blend of their oldest vines from the Home Block, Cambrae, Champ Ali, Walnut Ridge, Dimattina and Boundary Road vineyards, vines 25-43 years old, the oldest Pinot Noir plantings on the Martinborough Terrace, apparently. The clonal make up is unique to the region with the major portion (40%) being the Abel clone. This clone is later to flower and avoids some of the worst of the spring frosts. Hand-picked and 40% of the fruit was whole-bunch pressed, with the remainder destemmed. Fruit from the different clones and vineyards was kept separate during fermentation with indigenous yeasts. Fermentation continued for 15-23 days. Malolactic conversion in barrel and 11 months in low-toast French oak barriques, of which 35% were new. The wine was blended and held in stainless-steel tanks for a further eight months before bottling. Mid crimson. Enticingly fragrant with aromatic dark-red fruit, pure Pinot aroma. Neither sweet nor savoury, neither ripe nor stemmy. Relatively light-bodied, beautifully balanced between the fruit, mouth-watering freshness and extremely fine tannins. None of the sweetness that can make Pinot in Marlborough taste simple, this has the more savoury Martinborough character with just a touch of spice from the oak on the finish. Still very youthful with greater bottle-aged complexity sure to come. (JH)