CRITIC REVIEWS
Antonio Galloni
The NV Brut de Blancs is terrific at this level. Rich and sumptuous in the glass, the Blanc de Blancs possesses tremendous depth and resonance that builds over time. Sage, rosemary, dried lemon peel and white flowers add layers of dimension. Readers will find an especially rich, vinous expression of the Côtes de Blancs. This NV is a blend from Mesnil, Chouilly, Avize and Cramant, all Grand Cru villages, based on 2015. Time in the glass brings out the savory character that is such a strong vintage signature and that in many wines manifests itself as a vegetal quality. For that reason, I would prefer to drink the NV sooner rather than later, just to be safe. That should pose no problems, as the NV is positively stellar right now. The NV was done entirely in steel, with partially blocked malolactic fermentation. Dosage is 6.8 grams per liter. Disgorged: November, 2020.
Antonio Galloni
The NV Blanc de Blancs (from vineyards in the Cote des Blancs) emerges with firm, chalky notes that frame a highly individualistic expression of Chardonnay. The wine possesses striking depth and clarity, along with a graceful, elegant finish. This is another very strong effort from Billecart-Salmon. This is Lot: L 558 909 24609A. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017. The Billecart-Salmon house style is defined by class, elegance, and a sublime freshness to the wines. Long fermentations at cold temperatures with no malolactic fermentation are the rule at this small, family-owned property in Mareuil-sur-Ay. I also had a chance to re-taste the 2000 Brut Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon 2000 Brut Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart (reviewed last year). Both wines showed beautifully. Readers will find updated notes on www.erobertparker.com. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999
JancisRobinson.com
100% Chardonnay from four grands crus on the Côtes de Blancs: Avize, Cramant, Chouilly and Mesnil-sur-Oger. An exceptionally elegant, silky and surprisingly delicate champagne. I was expecting power, but this is like a mouthful of shimmering ribbons. An unusual floral fragrance, like the elusive scent of lily of the valley in an early-morning garden. Rich citrus woven into baked pear, tingling with green-apple sherbet. The bubbles float over the wine like cashmere lace. Tremendous purity. And the wine develops in the glass in a way I was not expecting, becoming richer, more dense, beginning to taste of violets and fresh-churned pink clay, of bread-yeast starters and sleepy pools of candlelight. A poet's champagne. (TC)


