1986 Chateau Haut-Brion Premier Cru Classe, Pessac-Leognan 1x75cl
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CRITIC REVIEWS
Neal Martin
The 1986 Haut-Brion is drinking beautifully and seems to have stretched its lead over La Mission. This ex-château bottle has quite wide degradation in colour. There is more depth on the nose than La Mission, still quite fleshy and generous (atypically for the vintage) with melted red and black fruit, warm gravel, cedar and undergrowth. The palate is medium-bodied with a silver bead of acidity. This is less Margaux-like than the bottle I tasted in 2021, a little more fungal towards the finish with touches of chestnut and leather. Still, I admire its insistent grip in the final third, which feels pure and quintessentially "Haut-Brion." Excellent. Tasted at Fells' annual tasting in London.
Neal Martin
Tasted at the château, the 1986 Haut Brion is a vintage that I had not tasted for some time. It is a blend of 28% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 62% Cabernet Sauvignon according to the chateau's records. Mirroring the 1996 La Mission, in this vintage that Haut-Brion occupies a higher quality level, with more complexity and vivacity on the nose: dusky black fruit, warm gravel, terracotta and cigar humidor. Lovely! The palate is very well balanced, maybe a little rustic compared to recent vintages, yet with firm body and grip. It's the kind of gruff, almost surly, broad-shouldered 1986s that might be a little curmudgeonly compared to 1985 or 1989, however after 30 years you are compensated with plenty of freshness and focus. I don't think it ranks up there with the best of the First Growth...that would come in other vintages, but it still provides plenty of drinking pleasure for those who love their classic claret with capital "C". Tasted July 2016.
JancisRobinson.com
Lively and rich and fully mature. Less density than the Mouton 1986 served blind alongside this wine. It hits the palate with sweet earthiness but leaves it with a firm dryness. Very appetising and nuanced.
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