2013 Vega Sicilia, Unico, Ribera del Duero DO 3x75cl

JancisRobinson.com

97% Tempranillo, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. For the first part of ageing they use 15-30% US oak and used oak can be 30-50% of all used. They have one sent of tanks for malo and others for ageing. Winemaker Gonzalo Iturriaga described 2013 as a horrible vintage with plenty of rot . The DO called it normal , their lowest ranking. They picked quite early and the wine is much more open than the 2012. They tried for finesse and complexity. The more structured lots always go into Unico. Some wine goes back into used barrels and they use lots of US oak for this sort of vintage. In the third year of ageing they make another assemblage which goes into vat for three more years. They want to rack only once a year and may blend in up to 15% of other, younger vintages to refresh the blend. Then it goes into bottle for 4.5 years. Quite small production because of their strict selection. Iturriaga says he feels more responsible for this 2013 than his predecessor Xavier Ausas, who oversaw it for only three years!Nose lacks the usual magic intensity of Unico. A little tighter and less rich than usual but there s a fantastic texture. More accessible than some and there is certainly the expected intensity of fruit though it s currently a bit dry on the end. (JR)