CRITIC REVIEWS
Anne Krebiehl MW
The 2025 Grüner Veltliner Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd comes from Toni Bodenstein's landmark collection of Grüner genetics, all planted together in 1997 in the upper part of Achleiten. Green pepper, Conference pear peel, smooth yeast and subtle greengage glow on the nose with beautiful savoriness and a shimmer of white miso. The palate is straight as an arrow, yet super-spicy, super-savory and wonderfully stony. This drives Grüner to its nth degree of spice. What remains is stone and straightness. What a beauty, what a benchmark.
JancisRobinson.com
Full bottle 1,254 g. RS 1 g/l, TA 5.7 g/l. Another very pale 2025 Grüner from Prager. Unformed nose but masses of broad, rich pleasure on the palate. Not quite as beautifully persistent as some of its 2025 stablemates at this stage. A hint of salinity on the end. For the moment it s a bit teenage and gangly.

