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Burgundy 2023: Vintage Report

Burgundy 2023 En Primeur | Vintage Report

A Paradoxical Vintage

The 2023 Burgundy vintage has been described as a year of contrast and triumph, producing terroir-driven wines that promise to delight collectors and investors alike. This is a vintage marked by its generosity, both in quality and quantity of wines, with consistent yields across the region. Despite setting the record for the hottest average temperature, 2023 has produced succulent, characterful wines with beautiful terroir expression of a cooler year, yet with the maturity of a ripe vintage.

A Challenging Yet Rewarding Growing Season

Burgundy’s reputation for complexity is well deserved, and the 2023 vintage underscores this with a growing season that defied easy generalisations. While 2023 was officially the hottest year on record, this figure is misleading; the exceptional warmth was largely due to a mild winter, while spring and summer temperatures were less extreme.

The year began with a mild and relatively dry winter, giving way to a spring marked by unpredictable conditions, including sudden downpours, which provided useful water reserves, warm spells, frosts, and thunderstorms. These cooler conditions delayed budbreak but also spared the vines from significant frost damage in late March and early April, setting the stage for a decent flowering period in early June as temperatures rose and remained above seasonal averages as the season shifted into Summer. These ideal growing conditions resulted in generous, healthly bunches, with multiple vineyard teams performing green harvests to control their yields and to enhance fruit concentration, particularly where grape volumes were exceptionally high.

The summer brought challenges of its own, with heatwaves, high humidity, and occasional hailstorms in regions like Meursault and Mâconnais. However, thanks to vigilant vineyard management, the vines remained largely resilient.

As the harvest approached, August rains provided much-needed relief, followed by clear, warm weather that allowed growers to pick at optimal ripeness. Harvest was early at the end of August and early September in challenging conditions of high temperatures, with pickers working in the morning to both avoid the heat of the day and help ensure the grapes retain their freshness.

The resulting vintage looks set to be excellent, and generous in both quantity and quality.

The Wines: A Vintage of Charm and Elegance

Whites: The Chardonnay grapes benefited from the warmth and achieved full ripeness, resulting in wines that are rich, aromatic, with concentrated, stone fruits flavours. These wines are expected to exhibit great depth, structure and energy, making them attractive both for early enjoyment and long-term cellaring.

Reds: Pinot Noir also reached high levels of ripeness, producing charming wines with deep colour and pronounced aromas of blackberry, redcurrant, and spice. While the warm conditions might slightly elevate alcohol levels in some cases, the overall quality is expected to be exceptional, offering balanced tannins and vibrant acidity. Whilst the wines will be drinking well early, don’t underestimate their potential for ageing.

Market Implications

The generous yields of 2023—estimated at around 1.9 million hectolitres, a 30% increase over average production—come as a relief after consecutive years of smaller harvests. This increased availability should help stabilise prices in the short term, a welcome development for collectors and investors.

Key Takeaways for Collectors and Investors

  • Quality and Quantity: Both red and white wines from 2023 show exceptional promise, striking a rare balance of richness, freshness and complexity. The vintage offers a rare combination of quality and quantity, making it an ideal year to invest in En Primeur releases.
  • Producer Selection: Variability in weather conditions throughout the season highlights the importance of choosing reliable producers with expertise in managing challenging growing conditions. The intricate terroir expression across villages and vineyards offers collectors a unique opportunity to explore Burgundy’s diversity.
  • A Vintage for Patience: While the wines are expected to be approachable upon release, their structure and richness suggest excellent ageing potential, especially for Grand Cru and Premier Cru classifications.

In Summary

The 2023 Burgundy vintage embodies resilience and reward, capturing the essence of a region that continues to adapt to climate challenges. Its wines, marked by terroir-driven nuance, elegance and charm are a testament to the enduring allure of this storied region. This vintage is a true celebration of Burgundy’s terroirs, with each vineyard showcasing its unique identity. The reds showcase richness and energy, while whites offer a blend of ripeness and structure with excellent ageing potential. 

Volumes are up by nearly 30%, offering both rarity and an opportunity to replenish collections. These wines promise early charm and impressive ageing potential, making them a must-have for any serious Burgundy enthusiast.

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